• PCs going green

    Personal Computer have changed the people life. And every person have a PC in their home in a normal family. And my opinion every one need a PC. But due the the huge amount of use of the energy due to the Computer in huge sector, the energy consumed is growing day by day. And there must be some solution to this problem. If the huge computer can be made to work in low power available then we can managed the energy saving and bring a revolution in the world.

    A company has invented cheap pcs so that people can enjoy the low power consumption at low price. Its just not about the low price as power consumption directly effect you electricity bills and helps energy saving.

    Its not just about the power consumption, but they are also the cheapest found on market. If people are really concious about the energy and the money then, I suggest people surely should get a one. I have order a piece for myself, as every good things should be started from ownself.

    Save energy, Save world – Go green.


  • Driving safety rules and regulations

    Driving the word itself filled with fun and joy if one follows the prescribed rules and regulations of the road!
    Driving in UK could be a pleasant experience if only you take care of certain rules and regulations. It is not only essential but also important that you are aware of these rules and regulations for few very important reasons. It is for your safety and other road users as well.

    Every country has its own set of rules about driving. It is important that you must know and understand these rules before you drive on the roads in UK.

    You need to consider these before thinking of driving on the road:

    Driving license:
    Before you drive on the road, you must hold valid driving permit/license.
    Driving license is most important document for the drivers. Visitors to the United Kingdom may drive rental cars using their national license, if it is in a language which uses Roman letters and numbers. Holders of other licenses must also show an International driving permit in English (available through motoring organizations).


    General speed rules:
    Follow the speed limits. If you break the speed limit, then you could be punished. In towns and villages, the ideal speed limits is 30 mph. When you are driving, you should always keep your speed below the maximum speed limit.
    If you are driving in the  town, then usually driving limit should not exceed above 30 mph (48 kph) and  major roads by passing towns  the driving limit should not exceed 40 mph (64 kph).

    Seat belts:
    Always wear the seat belts. Seat belts are designed to give a high level of protection in the event of a crash. They are designed to adjust automatically to fit the user, to be convenient and easy to use.
    Wearing the seat belts can reduce the injuries of that person as it stops that person to come out of his seat and hit other interiors of the car which is also called second impact.
    Despite of risk of serious injuries, and facts that seat belts can be effective in saving the life of people sitting in the vehicle, many people still neglect the use of seat belts while driving.


    Drink driving:
    Never drink and drive. People in the pub think they are an expert on the drinking and driving laws, but here are the hard facts as per the government law, people who disobey the law then their are severe penalties, including imprisonment, for driving with a Blood / Alcohol level exceeding 80 mg per 100 ml. If the police have a doubt that a person is breaking rules then he may stop the car and go for breath test.

    Children:

    Children under 14 must wear a seat. So if children are traveling with you, it is your responsibility to make sure they are wearing seat belts. Children under 3 years are not allowed in front unless in an approved infant seat or attach. Rear-facing infant seats must not be used in vehicles with passenger-side front airbags. Infants should be carried in an approved baby seat.
    It’s simple – follow these rules and regulations in UK and cherish the driving!!!


  • Honda Vs Yamaha

    Honda and Yamaha are two of the best companies that have their products in almost all kinds of industries, especially automobiles and other machinery. Honda Motor Company, Ltd. is a Japanese company believed to be the sixth largest automobile company in the world. It produces cars, motorcycles, ATVs, scooters, robotic systems, outboard motors, jet engines, generators, and other appliances. On the other hand, Yamaha Motor Company Limited is also a renowned Japanese manufacturer of motorbikes, ATVs, boats, outboard motors, snowmobiles, watercrafts, and so on. Since, the comparison of Honda Vs Yamaha is difficult, we will just have a general overview of few product models from both companies. Let us first compare the Honda TRX300EX and Yamaha Raptor 350.

    Honda vs Yamaha Comparison

    ATVs
    The Honda TRX300EX comes a bit cheaper than the Yamaha Raptor 350 with a price of $4900, as compared to $5,499. The TRX300EX has a 282cc engine with 5 manual gears with reverse, whereas the Raptor 350 has six manual gears with reverse. The Honda is a suitable option for smaller riders, and the larger size of the Yamaha is good for bigger people. The higher engine capacity and six gears on the Raptor gives more flexibility in riding, if compared to the Honda. Apart from these primary specifications, there is not much of a difference between the two ATVs. Read on for a comparison between the Honda BF115 and Yamaha F115 outboard motors.

    Outboard Motors
    The Honda BF115 outboard motor is a result of a modification of the Honda Accord’s 2.3 liter four-cylinder engine. It weighs around 496 pounds, hence is heavier than other outboard motors in its class. Its long-stroke design contributes a lot to a quieter functioning and good fuel efficiency. Yamaha has its 1.74 liter 115 hp four-stroke inline four outboard motor. Being just about 407 pounds, its lighter and smaller as compared to the Honda. If both these outboard motors are compared in performance; the Yamaha is a bit slower in acceleration and noisier, but 0.6 mph faster than the other. Below is a general comparison between dirt bikes from both brands.

    Dirt Bikes
    If we compare Honda CRF250R vs. Yamaha YZ250, the main difference is that the Yamaha is a two-stroke, which outperforms the four-stroke Honda. The Honda weighs 215 pounds, so is a bit lighter than its four stroke counterpart which weighs 229 pounds. The Honda gives a power of 37 hp, whereas Yamaha’s dirt bike produces more than 45 hp. When it comes to ease in handling, the CRF250R surpasses the Yamaha. Whereas in speed, the YZ250 beats the CRF250R. The fuel tank capacity of the Honda is 1.5 gallons, whereas that on the Yamaha is 2.1 gallons. Let us now take a look at the superbike comparison in both brands.

    Sportbikes
    Most of the specifications in the Honda CBR1000RR and YZF-R1 are the same. However, tests have shown that with regards to handling and a comfortable ride, the CBR1000RR is better than the YZF-R1. But the R1 is much faster than the Honda. The CBR has a fuel tank of 4.5 gallons, whereas the R1 can accommodate 4.8 gallons. Coming to the price of both these sport motorcycles, the CBR is cheaper at a starting price of $11,000 than the $13,500 approximate price tag on the Yamaha. The superbikes of both Honda and Yamaha are quality competitors, with each having their own style and performance.

    These are some basic factors to be considered in a comparison of Honda vs Yamaha product offerings. If you are thinking about Honda EU2000i vs Yamaha EF1000iS generators, both have much of the same specs; it’s just that the Yamaha model is more expensive. Since both companies are tough competitors, their machines will continue to be compared by consumers who demand top class performance.


  • How to Troubleshoot Your Turbocharger

    Troubleshooting a turbocharger

    All turbocharged engines since the 1960s are generally the same when it comes to diagnosing why they are or are not working. They comprise of a:

    · Actuator, which is a spring loaded diaphragm device that sense and controls the pressure in the compressor discharge

    · Compressor, which is a centrifugal radial outflow type

    · Turbine, which drives the compressor and is a radial inflow type

    · Wastegate, which allows a portion of the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine wheel limiting compressor speed to limit boost pressure. Boost itself is controlled by the Wastegate, which closes to optimize vehicle performance. It opens to limit boost when the maximum limit is reached.

    · Center housing, which supports the bearings, compressor, turbine and oil seals

    The turbocharger is driven by waste exhaust gases forced through an exhaust housing onto a turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is connected by a common shaft to a compressor wheel so that both wheels rotate simultaneously when the exhaust gases hit the turbine wheel. Rotation of the turbo assembly compresses the intake air routed through a compressor housing, forcing the compressed air into the engine’s cylinders. The increased amount of air forced into the engine creates more power than a similarly sized non-turbocharged engine and power similar to a larger, non-turbocharged engine. For comparison, a non turbo engine in a 1994 Mercury Capri has 100 hp, while the XR2 Turbo model, has 132 hp, using the same 4 cyl. Engine. The difference to a driver is substantial. The non-turbo engine is underpowered and has no get up and go, while the turbo is quite the opposite. In 1966, Chevy sold their rear engine Corvair Corsa Turbo which created 180 hp, compare it to the standard Monza model that had 110 hp. One downside to a turbocharger, is the superheating of the intake air. Since the turbine must be run by hot exhaust gasses, the heat transfers via conduction to the compressor. The compressor becomes superheated, and therefore heats the incoming air to the engine. The other main con of a turbocharger is something called turbo-lag. Turbo-lag is the time it takes for the turbo to spool up and produce power. Since an engine does not create large amounts of exhaust in low RPMs, the turbo creates small amounts of boost, and must have time to gain rotational inertia from the exhaust. The Turbos of the 60s and 70s are known for their finicky operation, or, everything had to be perfect in synch and to spec to avoid problems. They required frequent tweaking. Turbos from the 80s on, are much more reliable. If maintained, they will last 100,000 miles before replacement.

    TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

    PROBLEM

    DIAGNOSIS CHECK

     

    No Boost

    Compressor inlet hose collapsed, Compressor outlet to throttle body hose leaking, turbo or compressor wheel is damaged, turbo bearings have seized, wastegate is stuck open, clogged air cleaner, clogged air passage upstream of compressor

    Fix

    Tighten hoses, replace turbocharger, open wastegate, replace air cleaner, unclog air passages

    Lack of Power

    Bad engine compression, incorrect valve timing or clearance, incorrect ignition timing, clogged air cleaner or hose restriction upstream from compressor, oxygen sensor bad, volume of air flow incorrect

    Do compression check, correct timing and readjust valves, find air flow restriction, test oxygen sensor

    Detonation with No Boost

    Low grade fuel, ignition timing is too far advanced

    Add higher octane to fuel or drain and replace, correct timing to spec.

    Detonation with Normal Boost

    Same as no boost and: insufficient fuel supply, low fuel pressure, bad oxygen sensor, engine overheating, oil leaking into compressor from turbo, Valve seals leaking oil

    Same

    Excessive Fuel Consumption (black exhaust smoke)

    Engine needs tuneup, high fuel pressure, fuel line plugged, injectors are leaking, oxygen sensor bad

    Tuneup, test for fuel pressure in line and clogs, install new injectors, test oxygen sensor

    Excessive Oil Consumption (blue, gray or white smoke)

    Incorrect oil type, clogged air cleaner or hose restriction upstream from compressor, PCV malfunctions, Oxygen sensor bad,

    Noise or Vibration

    Leaks at turbocharger inlet and outlet, foreign object damage to turbine or compressor blade, turbine bearings failed

    Replace turbocharger

    High Boost

    Wastegate is not functioning, leak in exhaust system before muffler, leak in wastegate activator to compressor

    If exhaust is smoky

    Check compressor outlet for oil, check compressor inlet for oil.

    If compressor outlet is not oily, check turbine outlet for oil.

    If oil is present, Turbo is OK, check PCV system for clogs.

    If oil is found, it is an internal engine issue. If it is not found in turbine, Turbo is OK, smoke is from car engine.

    If compressor inlet is not oily, check for restriction in turbo oil supply tube.

    Repair restriction if found. If none is found, check for restriction in the turbo oil return tube. Remove restriction if found, if now, replace turbocharger.

    Wastegate- check diaphragm

    Remove actuator diaphragm hose at diaphragm. Connect pressure diagnostic gauge to diaphragm inlet. Apply recommended air pressure to diaphragm.

    Actuator rod should move, if no, replace turbocharger.



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